When I am asked about
differences between Western societies and Borneo societies the word
"party" jumps to my mind. And mind you, it does not have to be one
of those nasty, day-long drinking celebrations I have talked about
before. People in Borneo simply cannot conceive a quiet, private
‘decent’ Christmas party, for example. Let’s put it in order:
It is good that we have ‘Kedai 2 Ringgit’ – cheap sales
Shoppe – in Sabah, where you can buy all sorts of rather useless
things for two Ringgits or thereabouts. Things that last just about
what they are worth, but usually less! Towards Christmas those shops
are invaded by locals. Hordes of locals, the Dusun making no
exception, shopping for Christmas presents. That one has to give
presents for Christmas is of course a novel idea, a little newer
than Christmas itself, but then there is already a consumer society
out there in Sabah's jungle and marketing has worked well right into
the heart of all reasonably accessible villages. By reasonably
accessible I mean less than two days walking – preferably even
access by car! So there go hordes of Dusuns and buy supplies from
Kedai 2 Ringgit: teddy bears, screwdrivers, cotton buds, bras, alarm
clocks, sponges, night lamps, pencil sharpeners, detergent, ashtrays
and batteries, you name it you get it at the Kedai 2 Ringgit
inclusive of gift wrapping paper at a bargain rate, decorated with
snow covered landscapes and ice skaters. It is bargain loot,
considering that you have to prepare Christmas presents for your
fifteen children, twenty grandchildren and half a dozen great grand
children – of your first wife. More expenses will be required for
the food for the congregation which can easily reach a couple of
hundreds, but then you have the house for it. In some parts of Sabah
individual houses have a ‘ruang temu’ – translated as ‘living room’
but more appropriately interpreted as ‘congregation hall’ – that is
bigger than the house itself, some sort of porch the size of a small
sports hall. Mind you, inclusive of grand stand (for VIP guests and
the house owner, in that order), PA system and floodlights. OK,
maybe gas-pump lamps. But still enough space to accommodate easily
two hundred guests.
As Christmas approaches we start celebrating ‘open-house’ (rumah
terbuka in Malay). And we
certainly celebrate open-house! Nothing seems to bring greater
pride, or prestige to a family patriarch than a successful
open-house party in which hundreds of people come, drink, talk, and
maybe even sleep over. It is simply impossible to think of a small
party. Incidentally this is real Christmas: a coming together of
relatives and friends, of renewing bonds and mending past mistakes,
a promise of friendship and help in times of need.
But now we shall not forget the children, and all those who receive
presents according to the careful planning of the party. Take the
microphone to line them up and get their attention. Presents are
distributed according to a draw system. Each parcel gets a number,
and everyone who is on the long list of gift receivers is called up,
draws a number, and goes and looks for the corresponding present, nicely wrapped. The
crowd is cheering and laughing and clapping hands, of course you have to open
your Christmas present immediately and show what you got. Oh, dear,
the father of my friend got a bra, which he displayed with great humour and his youngest brother a couple of sponges, which puzzled
him mightily. His sister got a photo album, and I got a bedside lamp
that is so bright I could not sleep by it. And I don’t have a bed...!
But all this is really not
important, I got a present! And more laughter as everybody got
theirs, a little token, a gesture of goodwill, a happy lot everyone
and me amongst them all. Then the drinking continues, and the
eating, and chatting, and singing, and joking until early in the
morning. Life takes on a peculiar rhythm over the festive days and
if you manage to keep your alcohol level at a reasonable stage you
can actually do quite fine and visit several open house parties!
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Christmas BBQ
Traditional music
A new toy!
Christmas buffet...
Last one for the album!
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